Tuesday, January 24, 2006
Thursday, January 12, 2006
Christmas in Buenos Aires
This past Christmas was very different than any other in my experience. For one thing, we missed the entire traditional all-American with European influence Christmas thing. No huge dinner at home; no massive pile of presents. Instead, we enjoyed Christmas Eve dinner at a nice restaurant (Roof) about a block from our house. It was so much more relaxing. Shortly before midnight (the moment at which time most
Back at the restaurant the Christmas music had been switched to some kind of Argentine folk dance that reminded me of the Buena Vista Social Club soundtrack. A lot people were dancing and we had little choice but to join them. Eventually we headed home, to bed, but not before stopping in for a nightcap at our neighbors, Jose and Mara. More champagne.
The next morning, Christmas Day, was remarkably quiet, interrupted only by the sounds of birds singing and chirping. All of the ambient noise of this dense city had evaporated, it place taken by silence. The sky was a strong blue and there was not a cloud to be found.
Wednesday, January 11, 2006
Found in Buenos Aires
Monday, January 09, 2006
Buenos Aires - December 28, 2005
Balbina Lightowler is an artist who shares a studio down the block from us with Sylvia Flichman. Balbina, formerly an architect, and her husband, Leo, an architect, took us to the Boedo barrio, near their home, and treated us to a memorable evening at Pan y Teatro, an ancient restaurant. Excellent wine and food accompanied conversation and laughter late into the night. A man playing the piano added incredibly to an ambiance that was already soaked with charm, character and history.
A few days later, on New Year's Eve, Carolyn and I left the restaurant we were at early (Club de Vino) and hurried home to watch the fireworks from our terrace. We walked about a mile, amazed to see the streets entirely empty of traffic; not even one cab. The fireworks went on for a solid hour.